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Posts tagged "fashion"
5.31.12//15:37
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5.29.12//21:46
Modus Gratia Modi? Ars Gratia Artis Vere Est? Behind the Burning Birkin.
So recently, everyone’s all atwitter about Tyler Shield’s photo shoot with Francesca Eastwood.
Oh haven’t you heard? She takes a $100,000 red crocodile Birkin bag, bites it, saws it in half, and burns it.
Of course, fashionistas everywhere are livid: how dare she burn such an iconic bag? People out there are angry in general because of the bag’s value: why would you buy something that expensive in the first place if you were going to frivolously destroy it?
Mind you, he’s done some rather controversial photography before but the fact he has destroyed a Birkin bag (and a pair of Louboutins, by the way) sort of just demeans the entire history of Hermès as a company. That, of course, I do not take lightly. To me, it’s not about how much the bag costs but it’s about what the bag means. Not in the eyes of the media or public - a status symbol for wealth and celebrity - but in the eyes of those who work in the fashion industry. Birkin isn’t necessarily the new black but it’s an aspirational item that has aided in making Hermès one of the leading company’s in the industry. The company has steadily seen increasing figures with all business sectors growing. Luxury is making a comeback and out of all retailers, this one is the most in demand worldwide.
I suppose the only saving grace here is the photographer’s intent: to liberate the model (in this case, his actual girlfriend). I can understand the feeling. I can understand that fashion and quite frankly, this world is just materialistic. Money makes the world go ‘round, so the saying goes, and burning it (or having the ability to do so freely, rather) is powerful.
If we were to interpret the photograph as an artwork, the composition of the piece depicts society’s own self-destruction. The embossed texture of the crocodile leather alludes to the roughness of living in today’s society (difficulty subjective to each separate individual respectively). The flames and distress on the bag further the portrait of struggle, conflict, and destitution. The form of the bag (a trapezoid almost) is symbolic of humanity; the two sets of lines that are parallel to each other, connected at their extremities, create a unity in the piece that only represents the duality of human nature. There is also duality in that there are two people present in the frame. In terms of space, the bag is the focus of the image - creating a symmetry that is only broken by the hand sawing it in half and the people fighting for it. There is a wide range of tones used creating an overwhelming darkness. The images are a bit morbid and somber, showing the imbalance of our world.
In short, the bag represents the ideals and the wrongs of the world. It conveys the things that provoke humans to act in both good and unsightly ways (things like y’know, destroying a $100,000 bag). The prominent use of red only furthers the notion of sin: the bag is beautiful but the lust (and greed) for the bag and the lust (and envy) for those who own it only prompts evil. A destruction that according to the photographer, also brings freedom (a notion that brings me to a Florence + the Machine lyric, “it’s always darkest before the dawn”).
Ultimately, a statement was made. I question the argument’s strength though. The question becomes whether these photographs were done for the sake of art (or fashion - in an editorial way) or was it controversy for the sake of ratings and publicity? The photographer’s actual commentary is muddled by his involvement with the media, especially when the photo shoot will be televised on his girlfriend’s family’s reality show.
Nevertheless, I applaud Shields for beautiful photography. Thought provoking and conversational. He did it - whether you like it or not.
5.28.12//00:13
WWD’s latest “Designer to Watch,” @DaniellaKNY
This morning, I woke up to see the WWD Tumblr page and it’s latest highlight: South African designer, Daniella Kallmeyer.
For those of you that don’t know her, I’d like to take you back to season one of The Fashion Show(that interesting Bravo spin-off of Project Runwaythat started out with Isaac Mizrahi, Kelly Rowland, and Fern Mallis). She made it all the way to the finale and even though she didn’t win, she was runner-up and the judges’ choice for winner (Did I mention the winner was decided by the viewer? It was odd). So technically, in my eyes, she won. Her designs were the best executed and most cohesively presented.
Her latest collection however, deserves a lot of accolade. Minimalist but edgy and geometric, her Fall/Winter 2012 show was refreshing. Perhaps because it was so very much style but, I really think the clothes are subtly detailed, the perfect canvas for accessories. The main print utilized, an oil slick print, made use of the jewel-tones and brights on trend. Her neon-Rorschach print also was perfectly placed onto luscious silk. Furthermore, the illusions created with the fabric and silhouettes made for simple, polished clothing that any woman would want to have in her wardrobe.
Images courtesy of Sasha Collins
5.27.12//23:23
What about Carine and Emmanuelle? →
So recently, CNN and Fashionista.com teamed up to create “The 10 Most Powerful Women in Fashion” list - which surprised me a bit. I, of course, expected names like Anna Wintour, DVF, and Prada to show up. I’m not surprised by Pat McGrath or Cathy Horyn either. I am surprised though at the absence of Carine Roitfeld and Emmanuelle Alt. What about them? There are plenty of women I would’ve definitely placed on this list in lieu of some of the mentioned (Anna dello Russo, Glenda Bailey, Nina Garcia, Suzy Menkes, Hilary Alexander, Angela Missoni, Sarah Burton etc etc etc) but I find it rather insulting that Carine is definitely not on here.
Maybe because Emmanuelle is new at Vogue Paris but Carine definitely belongs on that list. For the love of fashion, the woman was the editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris for the last 10 years. She’s worked for some of the biggest names and designers, responsible for some of the most cutting edge editorials in the game. I mean, I could go on and on about Carine but… she’s just Carine. To me, she’s almost as ubiquitous as Anna, if not more so…
YES, I WENT THERE (and here’s a little bit why)
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5.23.12//13:11
@MrRalph Rucci (Awesomely) Disses Kim Kardashian →
Andre Leon Talley: What’s shocking to me is how important the red carpet is. At one point I thought it was ruining [fashion] but I don’t think that anymore. I dont think any celebrity can take away from fashion. Not even Kim Kardashian could take away from fashion…Though, of course, Kim Kardashian didn’t come to the Metropolitan Met Ball but [her boyfriend] Kanye West did.
Ralph Rucci: And see that’s the thing: Many people who I think are the celebrities, other people don’t think are the celebrities [implying that he doesn’t think Kim Kardashian is a celebrity.]
Robin Givhan: So would you ever dress Kim Kardashian?
Ralph Rucci: No, I think that’s bastardizing yourself [as a designer].
^^My hero.
This is really interesting. Ralph Rucci has been judged in the past for being a bit of an egomaniac (most prominently seen in episode two of Kell on Earth). Still, I can’t help but agree with him on this notion.
Celebrity endorsement (paid or unpaid) is a huge business. Specifically talking about design, creating a custom piece for a high profile celebrity client is probably one of the best things that can happen to a fashion designer - especially an unknown, up-and-coming designer.
This influence of fashion can be traced back to Louis XIV and his obsession with luxury, glamour, and elegance. Anything seen in Versailles was the à la mode. Today, celebrities have become the trendsetters in fashion. The second a celebrity wears a major designer’s garments, they instantly become a fashionista. From red carpet award shows to celebrity gossip magazines, media coverage of “who” a celebrity is wearing has become the focus of events. We all gab about how they wore “it” and how great or poorly they looked. We see stories on “how to get [Celebrity X’s] look” – further proof of how celebrities can potentially influence a person’s decision to buy the latest designer clothing and accessories.
This has become a primary focus in fashion marketing: the idea that celebrities are effective in imprinting a brand in the customer’s mind, which can incidentally prompt sales and generate new levels of success. But who are celebrities? They range from film and television stars to musicians, sports personalities, royals, politicians, and even socialites who have no defined careers apart from looking beautiful and attending the right events. In the fashion world, the list of celebrities would include designers, their muses, models, photographers, and any prominent person involved in the artistic aspects of fashion. Somehow, because they are in the spotlight, they become advertising mavens, capable of convincing customers of the credibility of any given brand’s offerings. For luxury brands in particular (like that of Chado Ralph Rucci), celebrities contribute to greater brand awareness, increased sustenance of a brand’s aura and position in the market (aka holding it true to its luxury status), and revival of a dormant brand (like Rucci’s – since he has shown on and off during fashion weeks and isn’t quite as active as he used to be in American fashion).
The keyword in this whole debacle is Kardashian. A name that has plagued 21st century pop culture in ways I cannot begin to describe. To support Rucci’s statement, let me remind you all of the five rules of celebrity endorsement for luxury brands: credibility, global appeal, personality, power, and constancy. First, a celebrity must have a high level of expertise and talent in their fields – which both bring value to the brand and imply the brand, is associated with the best. In this case, I, like most, cannot truly identify any Kardashian expertise, talent, or field, for that matter. Secondly, global appeal refers to awareness and appreciation worldwide. I’m not sure if any Kardashian is well liked everywhere. Thirdly, perhaps the most important rule, a celebrity’s personality must match the brand’s personality. Most brands associate themselves with celebrities based on their popularity rather than demeanor. Last time I checked, Chado Ralph Rucci is all about elegance and class – two qualities not normally associated with reality television. Fourthly, the celebrity must have power to promote the brand but not overshadow it. Lastly, the celebrity must invoke sustainability: their career must be predictably successful. The celebrity must be able to maintain their image and career accordingly. Given the Kardashian empire (and the work of Mama Jenner), there is no lasting power to their family’s brand. Chado Ralph Rucci is timeless. See the disconnect?
YOU GO RALPH RUCCI.
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About
A Fashion and Style Blog ... a Guide to the Deadliest Styles for your Inner Killer Fashionista... written by New York City fashion and style industry insider, the proclaimed "fashion queen who lives for McQueen," and #OccupyFashion cofounder, Diana Barbosa.
So... what is war worn fashion, exactly?
/wôr//wôrn//ˈfaSHən/· (n): styles that create controversy, lay spectators to waste or kill; a period of ultimate chicness (see “knock out” or “stunner”); the armor for the cut-throat every day life of a fashionista
