WAR.WORN.FASHION

April Johnston, @shesmadness. Photographed by John Michael Fulton.

Stunningly gorgeous designer, stunningly gorgeous design (aka my future wedding dress) #huzzah

EDITED A response to a very controversial @ProjectRunway

Last night, we all tuned in to watch the second part of the very much anticipated Project Runway season 8 finale.

Since the beginning of the season, Gretchen Jones has been dubbed as “Wretchen” for her exceeding overconfidence and over opinionated nature and criticizing (not to mention her “manipulation” in Episode 5 where according to Tim Gunn, her controlling tendencies were the reason why A.J. was sent home). Still, her performance in the competition was relatively consistent, she won the first and second challenge and she stayed true to her sustainable boho-chic (“granola” to some of you) aesthetic.

Then you have little Mondo Guerra: a funky creative fun spirit. He inspired us with his bravery in episode 10, when he revealed he is HIV positive (a secret he had been hiding for 10 years, ouch!). Not only did he touch us a person (even though he was the outcast at the beginning, he became friends with everyone and was the only one to truly befriend our Michael C) but his talent, originality (there’s clearly only one Mondo out there) and rawness as a designer captivates us. Last night, we were all on Team Mondo… so why is it that when it came down to these two designers (because Andy, unfortunately fell short and showed a collection far from his memorable aesthetic), Gretchen was selected?

I’m sure everyone was upset that there was even a sort of debate between the judges on the episode- since we all thought the decision was clear- but it truly wasn’t. I have to say though, first off, Jessica Simpson had no place being the guest judge, but that’s another story…As a designer and a merchandiser, I can see why the decision was so hard.

Let’s examine both finalists collections (courtesy of Giovanni Giannoni for WWD) and you’ll see why:

Mondo Guerra: What an explosion of fabulousness! I mean, this screams Mondo. His inspiration is very clear: Day of the Dead, Viva la Raza, Mexico! I really appreciated the use of color and embellishments (talk about some fun hairpieces and detail work on some of those looks). While he did stay true to his design style with loud prints and eye-catching “LOOK AT ME” looks, this collection does lack, in my opinion, cohesion and composition. Even though he had a great concept, he kind of overdid it. I even said it last night: ACID TRIP, LOVIN’ IT!

In this case, I agree with Michael Kors, in that, solids would have been his best friend for this collection. In merchandising, you have your basics, your novelty or key items, and your fashion items. Clearly, Mondo’s all about novelty and fashion. Where was the basic? He needed to clean up his silhouettes and styling. More plus more isn’t always good. As fun as the collection was, and as much as I loved every minute of it (because, if you know me, I pretty live for clothing like this), it was not as strong as Ms. Jones’, from a merchandiser standpoint.

Unfortunately, the economy right now and good business/success as a designer depends more on merchandising than designing (a reason why I major in product development & merchandising instead of solely just design). You need to have the right product, at the right prices, in the right place, at the right promotion, and for the right customer. Prices and promotion aside, we have to look at fashion in this economic climate: it is all about the masses. Is everyone the Mondo customer? You answer that for yourselves…

Now on to Gretchen’s line:

Saleable, wearable, contemporary. Yes, I understand: granny panties and a lack of variety. Where were the pants? Fine, I agree. However, from a merchandising stand point, the colors were spot on for the upcoming seasons. As someone who pays close attention to the runway and has a heads-up from forecasters, I know what fashion will bring us in the future. So, based on that, she’s right on the mark. Feminine, ethereal but still rough around the edges, Gretchen’s clothes epitomize wearability. You can be a size 16 or a sample size 6 and still look great- a competitive advantage stores would want in purchasing her clothes to sell. The prints used were quiet and monotone but still appealing to the eye (and spot-on with their tribal and animal influence). It was subtle enough that it would flatter anybody, while still giving the wearer some sort of pop. In some way or another, she is arguably a new age Diane von Furstenburg (her girls certainly did rock some DVF curls!): her ability to design classic, feminine, yet still sexy clothes for the everyday woman. Her design aesthetic, while boring, compared to Mondo’s, appeals to women of every age and size, which is one of the many reasons that she won. Her outfits can easily translate to any form or retailer and can become classics much more easily than Mondo’s clothes.

Remember, today’s fashion is not solely about design… It is an ever changing business…Mondo has to learn that.

And to be honest, while both contestants deserved to show and win, Gretchen’s show resonates more with me, simply because it fits more with the other shows at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Take it from someone who has attended plenty a fashion show and actually seen the shows in the Tents, Gretchen’s show fits right in.

From the second they posted the pictures of Gretchen’s collection on WWD, I knew she would win. I wanted Mondo to win so badly (not just because he’s a fellow Latino, REPRESENT) but…

Project Runway is about finding the next great American designer… that’s pretty vague, you guys. What is great American design? We’re stuck between quirky eccentric avant-garde styles and practical, effortless ready-to-wear. And remember, the Project Runway finale is SOLELY based on the finale; had it been about overall season performance, Mondo deserved it, hands down. Still, the question still remains: why is Gretchen the “next great American designer,” according to Project Runway judges? According to Wikipedia, “American fashion design is dominated by a clean-cut, urban, casual style; reflecting the athletic, health-conscious lifestyles of American city-dwellers.” Tell me Gretchen’s collection did not epitomize this statement?